Special Order – Camp Survival Knife

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This is a 1095 High Carbon Steel, drop point, general purpose camp survival knife with a 550 cord-wrapped handle. Kydex Sheath made to be worn around the neck or on Molle Gear. Since everybody likes to use their knife as a pry bar or screwdriver, I designed a screwdriver bit at the butt of the handle so the user who wishes to use their knife in this manner won’t endanger the blade.


Neoprene Handle Drop Point Hunter

neopreneknifeThe first knife with my name stamped on it. I’m extremely proud of this knife, it’s my best work so far. Features neoprene handle, brass hilt and pin, distal tapered and differentially heat treated, 1084 high carbon steel. I was impressed with the grip of the neoprene handle because it didn’t slip in my hand while it was wet.


How to Keep from Losing your Knife if your Scabbard Snap Breaks

This is called a dummy cord. This is something we used in the military to keep our knives secure even if the snaps came undone. If you don’t have a leather hole punch, use a drill (backed by wood to keep from going through both strips of leather) or an awl can work, the key is to make it a snug fit for the leather that goes through.

Make four holes in a square formation through the front leather of your scabbard.

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Loop the leather strap through the first two holes from the backside.

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Insert the straps through the other two holes and slide the knife in behind. Tie knots where you want the straps to end and pull tight. The knot ends just dangle loose but will keep the strap from slipping back through the holes when you pull the knife and from being lost if the snap fails.

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Special Order Nessmuk Knife Osage Handle

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This knife is a Nessmuk design. The blade is multi-purpose use. It has a distal tapering which means it’s wider at the handle and tapers evenly down to the tip. The blade geometry, the secondary edge, is wider closer to the handle and thinner near the tip for the purpose of having a chopping surface near the rear of the handle for the purpose of batoning and shallower at the tip for being a good skinner or a utility knife. The point is very close to the centerline of the handle making it easier to use as a drilling instrument into wood for creating things like holes for a bow or hand drill for fire making. The handle of this knife is a little longer than most knives, and it is a sub-hilt design. I like the sub-hilt design because it offers the user more control in most of your cutting operations. It’s extra long so a person  can take a grip behind the sub-hilt finger groove to add more weight forward for chopping. This knife is a good, durable, extremely useful design that I have thoroughly enjoyed making. The small cut at the base of the blade is called a choil cut; it aids in ease of sharpening.


Prairie Days 2012

A good crowd gathered around the forge this weekend. Made two projects a letter opener with a gentleman, and Mark made a bracelet for one of the ladies heading up the event.

My daughter worked on her piece as well. While my son helped by allowing me to hold him while I held the piece for the gentleman to work on and assisted me in my first ever “be force fed an orange slice while smithing.”