This is the first knife I’ve used Micarta on and a sculpted handle where the spine’s profile is a Coke bottle with wide hips and a pinky groove. The blade is 1084, the hilt is 304 stainless steel, the handle is Micarta with a mosaic pin and a throng hole. Just like all my knives, I enjoyed making it and learned a lot about working the Micarta which is very much different than the other materials I’ve worked with.
The scabbard is handmade as well. It’s my first pouch scabbard. I watched a tutorial from Ian Atkinson and thought it would work well with this knife.
A dear friend who was a production test pilot wanted a knife reminiscent of the Kukri knife but capable of being strapped to his forearm so while he was in the crash position if he survived, he could access his knife. This is the closest I could come to marrying those two desires.This is one of few that I didn’t forge. The knife is made out of 1095 and cold blued.
The sheath is Kydex made to fit on a Ace Carpal Tunnel Bandage. 🙂
My mom wanted me to make a knife for my dad’s birthday and to use this Lignum Vitae he raised from the bottom of the Panama Canal while Scuba Diving when we lived there. Being that my dad is a sailing instructor, I thought the only kind of knife he would actually use would be a seafaring knife. I used the lignum vitae for the furniture and cork for the handle in the hopes that it would float. It doesn’t. This is the first knife that I etched with ferric chloride. I think it turned out great.
The sheath is thrown away Kydex and designed to be worn either on the belt or as a neck knife.
A friend asked if I could come over to teach him how to make knives with his propane forge. I’ve never used a propane forge and told him that. When trying to decide what would be easiest to make, I came across Joe Keeslar’s Brute de Forge knives. I saw how the simplicity of the design lends itself to individual artistic license. So we decided to do the Brute de Forge. With this one, I thought I would try the clay hardening to see if I could get a hamon. And Viola! It worked. Needless to say, my friend and I had a blast making this.
I thought I’d keep this for my own EDC (Ever Day Carry), but someone offered me money and I let him take it off my hands.
It’s made out of a file of unknown brand. The handle is mahogany that is scrap from a machine shop. The pins are mosaic and the throng hole is stainless steel tubing.
This is a 1095 High Carbon Steel, drop point, general purpose camp survival knife with a 550 cord-wrapped handle. Kydex Sheath made to be worn around the neck or on Molle Gear. Since everybody likes to use their knife as a pry bar or screwdriver, I designed a screwdriver bit at the butt of the handle so the user who wishes to use their knife in this manner won’t endanger the blade.
The first knife with my name stamped on it. I’m extremely proud of this knife, it’s my best work so far. Features neoprene handle, brass hilt and pin, distal tapered and differentially heat treated, 1084 high carbon steel. I was impressed with the grip of the neoprene handle because it didn’t slip in my hand while it was wet.
This knife is a Nessmuk design. The blade is multi-purpose use. It has a distal tapering which means it’s wider at the handle and tapers evenly down to the tip. The blade geometry, the secondary edge, is wider closer to the handle and thinner near the tip for the purpose of having a chopping surface near the rear of the handle for the purpose of batoning and shallower at the tip for being a good skinner or a utility knife. The point is very close to the centerline of the handle making it easier to use as a drilling instrument into wood for creating things like holes for a bow or hand drill for fire making. The handle of this knife is a little longer than most knives, and it is a sub-hilt design. I like the sub-hilt design because it offers the user more control in most of your cutting operations. It’s extra long so a person can take a grip behind the sub-hilt finger groove to add more weight forward for chopping. This knife is a good, durable, extremely useful design that I have thoroughly enjoyed making. The small cut at the base of the blade is called a choil cut; it aids in ease of sharpening.
Pretty scroll work on the top of the blade.